Krazy Kibi Kofun

[JLBadgley]

For all the Kofun enthusiasts out there, if you haven't been to Okayama, you should go. Soon.

Okay, there probably isn't much urgency; the large mounds of earth are not likely to get up and move. Still, this is definitely a great place for fans of the large ancient and still somewhat mysterious tumuli that are our most visible link to pre-Asuka period Japan.

Okayama prefecture encompasses the ancient country of Kibi, which is probably better known by the three domains into which it was broken up later after being fully incorporated into the Yamaoto court: Bizen, Bitchu, and Bingo (literally Front, Middle, and Back Kibi--the same thing happened to the country of "Koshi" (Etsu), producing Echizen, Etchu, and Echigo).

We explored the area between Kibitsuhiko shrine and Soja city by bicycle, which was a great way to see things (though word of caution: Bring a cushion!). We started off at Ichinomiya station on the Kibi line and headed out to Kibitsuhiko shrine--this is actually one shrine with Kibitsu shrine on the other side of the mountain, divided by the boundary for Bizen and Bitchu. We only found the shrine dated to 1425, but it claims traditional roots back to the Asuka period. There certainly is evidence of some sort of activity: Within the mountain that serves as the primary locus for the shrine complex there is a kofun, though we didn't get up to see it this trip.

This appears to have been the major shrine for the area, and its position would definitely have made it a central one for the region. The primary deity, according to the attendant we talked to, is the spirit of Kibitsu, an ancient prince and the possible origin of the Momotaro legend: He is said to have killed a "Korean" prince (Ula or Ura) who probably lived up in the "Demon's Castle" (Kinojo) up in the mountains. More on that, later. Ula's head, they claim, was buried on the shrine grounds beneath what eventually became a kitchen. Now his spirit is consulted for divinations via a pot of brown rice (genmai) that is boiled in a pot on the stove. Supplicants ask a question and then listen for the pot to pop. The louder the sound that issues from the pot, the more favorable the divination.


(A modern statue of Momotaro at Okayama station.)

It is interesting that the "demon" of the Momotaro legend would be consulted in this way, but perhaps it has something to do with an ancient rivalry between Kibi and Yamato? Unfortunately, the main history we have of the unification of Japan is that of the eventual winner, and even that is often questionable.

Following the bike path we missed the prefectural museum of archaeology, but soon came upon the first Tsukuriyama Kofun (English speakers beware: There are *two* Tsukuriyama in the Kibi area. Both mean, basically, "(Man-)made mountain", but they use slightly different kanji). This is the fourth largest kofun in Japan, with a length of approximately 350 meters. It is a keyhole shaped mound, still being studied by archaeologists. We happened to meet up with a local artist and his wife who have been studying the kofun; he designed the statue of the "King of Kibi" that stands at the visitor center and is working on a detailed map of the surrounding area (I didn't quite catch who had commissioned the map). From the top of the kofun, he pointed out five smaller kofun, mostly of the square shape. He also showed us where the shrine at the flat end of the kofun had a stone coffin out in front, as well as a piece of coffin lid a little further down. The lid showed the Chokkomon design common to many kofun, and the interior still showed signs of the red paint (shu) that is found painted on kofun walls as well as being used to paint the red pillars of buildings and shrines even today.


(The lid of a coffin from one of the nearby kofun. You can see the red "shu" coloration faintly on the undersides. There were also carvings of circles with "X" markings through them, which are also a feature of Kyushu burials.)

Pointing out the other kofun in the area, he mentioned that one of them had yielded a horse-shaped belt buckle, while others showed signs of a connection to the kofun of N. Kyushu (Kitakyushu). Back in the kofun period, Kibi would have held power over teh shipping channels of the Seto Inland Sea, and was likely a major port between the Yamato and N. Kyushu areas. The "Tsu" of "Kibitsu" means "port", and the sea at that time would have been much further inland, having silted in over time. This has led me to wonder if "Kibitsuhiko" doesn't refer to "Prince of Kibitsu" or "Prince of Kibi Port".


(A picture of one of the smaller mounds littering the area around the kofun--I can't recall if this was another kofun or if it is thought to have been a ritual platform for the main kofun)

As with most kofun, the actual person interred in Tsukuriyama kofun is a mystery. Though I believe it has been claimed as a royal ancestor, it is not immediately apparent that this is actually the case. Rather, based on the dating, it is possible that this was a major local ruler during the kofun period. There are certainly numerous others in the area, all surrounding the same valley; they might be part of a local dynasty whose memory is lost to us after the rise of Yamato. Or, as some have postulated, they are members of the ruling family during a time when the kingship rtated between different geographical regions. We may never really know.


(A statue of the unknown occupant, titled the "King of Kibi", with Tsukuriyama Kofun in the background.)

Before departing this first Tsukuriyama, I'd like to make mention of one more thing that the archaeologists may enjoy. Prof. Niiro of Okayama University's Ancient Studies program has recently conducted studies of the "moat" area surrounding this large kofun, and determined that there was a ditch dug in the kofun period. Based on the presence of a nearby stream and river, this would probably have been filled with water, much like with some of the large kofun of the Yamato area.

Continuing on our journey, we passed three other kofun, including Komori, where you can actually go inside the burial chamber, which has been excavated and left open to the public. Komori also sits in between the sites of the Nara period Kibi Kokubunji and Kibi Kokubunniji (Kokubun temple and nunnery), built on the orders of the Emp. Shommu, who is also responsible for much of the contents of the Shosoin treasure house. Unfortunately, none of the original structures remain, though there is a very beaufitul temple still on the spot with a pagoda dating from the late Edo period. Still, it was the kofun that captured our attention.


(Komori kofun)


(The pagoda at Kibi Kokubunji)

There was more of the Yayoi and Kofun period heritage scattered about the area near Soja, but one thing that you can't miss, these days, is actually above the plain on one of the nearby mountains: Kinnojo, or the Demon's Castle:



The local legends claim that this is the "Demon's Castle" that later became the focus of the Momotaro legend, along with Kibitsuhiko, though it is unclear if the two were actually contemporary. Regardless, the very fact that there was an ancient fortress up in the mountains at such an early date (at least 8th century, if not earlier) and the extent of the archaeological finds are impressive in and of themselves. Add to that the ongoing work to recreate what it would have looked like back in its heydey, and it is pretty impressive. The views from the top are also gorgeous. Unfortunately, there is no easy way to get up there unless you have your own car.


(The reconstructed gate. The stone is local stone, and the walls are mostly packed earth made in the same method as the "Water Castle" in Kyushu and many Yayoi settlements--they actually had volunteers pound the earth with wooden sticks rather than using machinery--though they do use machinery for some of it.)


(A look beyond the gate, to the rolling mountains and hills beyond. This would have been a truly formidable location.)

I can't help but think that the location was partly strategic and partly determined by engineering--the area is strewn with rocks, and it would make it much easier to quarry them at the site, rather than having to haul them up from another area. Also, it should be pointed out that this wasn't a castle so much as a walled settlement. There were structures found inside, though I don't know if they have reconstructed any of them, yet. The entire girth is such that we estimated it would take us an hour to hike around it--unfortunately we just didn't have the time, but I wouldn't mind coming back at some point.

That is my brief overview of Kibi. We actually didn't make the gardens at Okayama castle--we left those for another trip. I'll try to have some of the other sites we visited (Miyajima, Yoshinogari, etc.) up in the coming weeks, if I'm not still kept as busy as I've been recently.

[ltdomer98]

Very nice! Too bad you missed the gardens, but they'll still be there next time. Great pics, thanks for sharing.

Oh, and Yoshinogari KICKS ACE!
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The Sengoku Field Manual Blog

[lordameth]

Fantastic post! Thanks for sharing all this.

Since reading about Yamato period Korean-style fortresses and writing about it for the Wiki a few years ago, I've been really interested to visit Ki no jô. Don't think it's going to happen during this upcoming Japan trip, though. Too much else to do, not nearly enough time
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My blog on Japanese art & history: http://chaari.wordpress.com

紫水晶殿 - The Amethyst Lord

[Bethetsu]

Thank you for the description and pictures.

[Tatsunoshi]

Thanks for posting these, Josh, along with the explanations. I particularly like the long shot of the rebuilt fortification., and I had no idea there were kofun where the public are allowed access to the inside. I might have to actually go and visit one now!

[Tsubame1]

hate you...
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Carlo

[OishiYoshio]

Great write-up. Anyone visiting and needing a guide, please contact. This is my back garden, where I have lived and worked for 33 years.